The Top 10 Mistakes People Make When Training Their Dog (and how to fix them)

So, you’ve been reading books on dog training, watching videos on YouTube, even working with a private or group trainer, but your dog is still pulling you down the street and only listens when you’re alone together in your living room. What are you doing wrong?

That’s a question I get asked multiple times a day, and the answers are very simple! So are the fixes. But remember, simple is not the same as easy…

Here are my top 10 mistakes people make when training their dog. Let me know which ones apply to you and if you have some other ones!

1.      Not reinforcing enough

I find that most people are worried about giving their dog “too many treats.”

First, it’s important to understand that the reason we use food in the INITIAL training phase is because it’s a “primary reinforcer.” That means it’s something your dog is born liking/needing. Everyone needs to eat. Of course, some dogs are more food-motivated than others, but that’s a topic for a different discussion!

Eating food also releases feel-good chemicals (dopamine) in your dog’s brain. This makes training pleasurable for them, so they enjoy learning.

Consider shifting your mindset so you’re not thinking of the food you use during training as “treats.” We’re not using M&Ms and Laffy Taffy here…We’re using actual food! Just figure your dog’s daily food allowance into their training and use their meal to train. Trust me, it’s WAY more stimulating than eating out of a boring bowl, and it takes longer!

Lastly, when learning a new skill, it’s important to have a really high “rate of reinforcement” (i.e., reinforce EVERY time your dog does the thing). It’s also vital to match the TYPE of reinforcer to the difficulty of the skill (e.g., if you’re working outside, with distractions, increase the VALUE of the reinforcer. For example, instead of kibble or training treats, use real cheese or chicken…). Once the skill is solid, we can start to reinforce more randomly/intermittently (think slot machine…).

2.      Not progressing slowly enough

When your dog is learning a new skill, it’s important to start when it’s EASY and move forward slowly. This is true for EVERY skill, from “leave it,” to “drop it,” to “loose leash walking,” yet I find that most people practice in their living room with no distractions and are discouraged when it “doesn’t work” outside with other people, dogs, kids on bikes, etc.

This is especially true when working with dogs who display reactivity toward other dogs or people. I find it very difficult to convince people NOT to subject their dog to these things at close range before they are ready, yet it is unfortunately all too common. Remember the story of the tortoise and the hare? Slow is the new fast…

3.      Not “proofing”

To expand on #2 above, “proofing” means your dog will do the skill in the face of the “3Ds”: Distance, duration, and distractions. To get there, it’s important to practice in all sorts of situations/locations/times of day, changing only one variable at a time.

Dogs don’t “generalize,” so if you teach “sit” in your living room in front of the couch and then ask your dog to do it in the bathroom, they might look at you like they’ve never heard of it before…

4.      Not realizing that you are ALWAYS training, even when you aren’t “officially” training.

Your dog is always learning about how their behaviors affect the outcome for them. For instance, if your dog grabs your slipper and runs away and you chase after them, they learn that the way to get your attention is to grab something you value. You are, in effect, TEACHING them to grab your stuff! They’re not misbehaving; they’re just behaving, and whatever “works” gets repeated…

5.      Not prioritizing enrichment

This is a BIG one. So much of dogs doing things we don’t like is the result of boredom. A dog needs a job. If you don’t give them one, I can guarantee they’ll find one, and you might not like it. I once had a client whose dog had torn apart EIGHT mattresses before I met her! Once we gave her an acceptable outlet for her love of shredding and dissecting things, she never touched another mattress.

The easiest place to start is to stop feeding your dog from a bowl. That’s right. I said it. STOP feeding your dog from a boring old bowl. Instead, put their meal in a snuffle mat, a Kong Wobbler, a Toppl, puzzle toys, sprinkle it in the grass in the backyard, hide it around the house at dog level, etc. When your dog is in “seeking brain,” they use a lot of mental energy, enjoy the challenge, and, best of all, they can’t be in crazy/reactive brain at the same time!

6.      Not finding the “yes.”

I hear it so often: “When my dog does X, I say ‘no!’ and he knows to stop.” Still, they’ve obviously hired me to help train their dog, so it can’t be working that well, can it?

My question is, what DO you want your dog to do? For example, you DON’T want your dog to jump on guests when they enter your home. Maybe you want them to go get a toy, or sit nicely, or go lay in their bed. For every potential “no,” your job is to find the yes! Your dog needs to know what to do instead, or they might find ANOTHER no. 😉

7.      Not paying attention to your dog on walks

One of my pet peeves (get it?) is seeing people walking their dog while wearing headphones or talking on the phone and ignoring the dog. Their dog is looking up at them, or is looking worriedly at something in the street, and the person is oblivious.

Think of walks with your dog as a time to connect, “talk about” what you’re seeing, and gauge their comfort level with various unexpected or “weird stuff,” so you can address this with your trainer and help them if they’re struggling.

8.      Not waiting until the behavior is solid/fluent before adding the cue

Yes, you read that right. It’s a cue, not a command. Command implies “do it, or else!” A cue is a word or body language that lets the dog know what you want. For those of you who’ve ever been on stage, you know that, for example, your cue to enter is when the actor currently onstage says a certain line…It’s the same with your dog. Your word, or hand motion, lets your dog know it’s time to do the thing they learned.

Because people communicate verbally, we are often anxious to put a word with what we want our dog to do (like sit, stay, etc.), but the correct time to add the cue is AFTER the dog is doing the behavior every time. Then and ONLY then, should you add the cue, and add it WHILE your dog is in the act of doing the behavior, so they understand what it means!

9.      Not trusting the process

In order to become a certified professional dog trainer, your trainer has had to train dogs for at least 300 hours and pass a rigorous standardized exam. The things they are teaching you are based on significant experience.

Trust that if you follow the advice you are given and practice as directed, you WILL see results. Conversely, if you don’t take the time to work with your dog, you cannot expect the outcome you are looking for. There’s just no way around it. You have to put in the time.

10.  Not practicing/watching videos/reaching out/asking for help

Many trainers—myself included—provide videos and written “cheat sheets” to help support our in-person sessions. It’s very important that you watch these, and ask questions if there is anything you don’t understand.

Your trainer is there to help you and your dog be SUCCESSFUL, so don’t wait until your next session to reach out with any questions you have. Also, don’t feel that if you didn’t have time to work on your skills that you should cancel the lesson and wait until you feel “ready.” We’re here to motivate and support you. We’re in this because we LOVE dogs and want them to live happy lives with YOU!

I hope this was helpful, and that you learned something! Please reach out if you have any questions or comments. I’d love to hear from you. Now go make a dog smile today!